Archive for ‘Milan’

February 15, 2014

Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2013

Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2013 18 shoeSalvatore Ferragamo Spring 2013 23Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2013 26Salvatore Ferragamo Spring 2013 28 shoe

Credit: Vogue.com

While Salvatore Ferragamo has always been a well-known name for luxury goods (high-end footwear in particular), it has since fallen out of favor with the current market.  And though it is a house still in transition, I like how its revival (or rather proper foray into prêt-à-porter) is coming along.  If nothing else, I can always look forward to Ferragamo for its expertise in leather goods.  There is an old-world quality to their product, heralding back to the days of custom cobbling.  The handcraft skill is still unmatched by anything produced on the mass market.  And thus ends the somewhat intelligent portion of this review.  The shoes for Spring 2013 are seriously lust-worthy so forgive me for the effusive babble that is about to occur.

For one, the thigh high gladiators are utterly glorious if improbably difficult to get into (and out of), let alone to wander around in.  Not to mention, it would be near impossible to wear in the actual Spring/Summer season with hot weather. But does any woman honestly care about utilitarianism when met with insanely awesome shoes? Or perhaps it is just me.  Because I am experiencing some serious lust over these boots.  They totally make the overall look.  I have always been a major fan of armor-inspired architectural looks, and, boy, does Massimiliano Giornetti deliver.  The overall collection is beautifully constructed, appropriately grand, and sexy as hell.  Each look is delightfully tactile; leather, suede, and snakeskin feature heavily, adding a luxe quality to otherwise neatly tailored pieces.  Moreover, the textured details reveal the quality of the work.  The stitching is superb, which is to be expected of this particular house.  Enough to temporarily distract me from the shoes.  And if anything, this collection has certainly shown that Ferragamo will be one to watch during the Milan circuit.

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February 15, 2014

Marni Spring 2013

Marni Spring 2013 10Marni Spring 2013 25 Esther HeeschMarni Spring 2013 19 bagMarni Spring 2013 21

Credit: Vogue.com

I love the Marni aesthetic.  There is something effortlessly chic about the parred down simplicity.  This is largely due to Consuelo Castiglioni’s bold vision.  For someone well-known for her excellent use of geometric print, Castiglioni shows that she can do sophisticated minimalism with the best of them, and all without losing any of her trademark quirk. And while I love the luxury and gravitas of high fashion, I am also a major fan of the “dramatic clean sweep”.  There is something quietly powerful about Castiglioni’s exemplary control.  Her craft is absolutely exquisite, resulting in pieces that move in a most alluring manner.  I love how she has taken traditionally heavy fabrics like bonded leather and damask cotton and repurposed them into effortless spring looks.  In fact, this entire collection showcases pieces with an improbable lightness.  I am particularly taken with how the fabric seems to envelop the body, allowing for an elegant ease of movement. The overall impact is quite charming.

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January 24, 2014

Aquilano.Rimondi Spring 2013

Aquilano.Rimondi Spring 2013 19Aquilano.Rimondi Spring 2013 33

Credit: Vogue.com

While I positively swooned over their opulent baroque revival for Fall 2012, I found this more playful outing less impressive, but enjoyable nonetheless.  Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s love for colorful prints and architectural shapes is highly evident with this rather youthful spring collection.  And though I am not generally accepting of the more flamboyant collections frequently shown in Milan, I am much more tolerant of excessive print when Aquilano and Rimondi’s cutting technique is on clear display.  They make an effort not to let craftsmanship become lost in a fit of whimsy.  Certainly, their use of rich textiles and vibrant embellishments makes for a rather tactile, if dizzying display of epic proportions.  That being said, Spring 2013 feels rather directionless.  While I am sure they certainly stand out among the more grandstanding Milano shows, their display of creative fervor feels a little too immature for my tastes.  Again, the technique is certainly there. I am a particular fan of their empire-waist structure; the silhouette is intriguing without ballooning too far from the body.  However, this does not fully disguise a lacking vision.  That sounds rather harsh, and I would hate to end on such a negative note.  I am sure that their enthusiasm and whimsy can be focused in future collections.  And with their budding talent, this pair is certainly one to watch at Milan.

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