Archive for ‘Milan’

September 29, 2010

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

I can’t believe that I forgot to post up Dolce & Gabbana.  This time the boys went for an almost all white collection.  It may be white (and possibly for a wedding) and it may be spring, but Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana still keep it tailored.  Paying for tribute to Sicilian trailoring (this time Sicilian white lace), they craft a beautiful glamorous collection that updates their fall collection into spring.  There is plenty of white Sicilian lace with flowery silks and light tweed.  What I love about Dolce & Gabbana is that they give me girly dressing without making it cute.  It’s sophisticated, well-tailored, feminine, romantic, and exquisitely decorated.  That bejeweled rhinestone work is astonishing.

Domenico and Stefano give me sensuality with romantic flair.  It is their trademark.  And is precisely what differentiates them from other Italian designers’ versions of sexy.  Dolce & Gabbana does not overtly drip with sex appeal like Gucci/Versace/Roberto Cavalli; nor does it wittily flirt with femininity like Prada does.  What they do do is exquisitely crafted clothes that are elegant and utterly feminine.   Their lingerie would enchant both men and women alike.  Dolce & Gabbana gives as they described last season “romance with great sex.”

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September 26, 2010

Emilio Pucci Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Well Pucci certainly doesn’t pretend to be what it isn’t.  Peter Dundas turns up the sexiness (this is Italy after all) in his latest collection for Emilio Pucci.  Big on prints, big on skin, and big on ruffles.  Considering it’s history, this is decidedly a very Pucci collection; no one quite does sexiness like the Italians.  Dundas gives me saucy cut-outs, neat lace-ups, and gothic crosses.   How could I not love it?

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September 26, 2010

Jil Sander Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

In anyone could make the case for bright neon elegance, it is Raf Simons.  The Jil Sander Creative Director was despairing over today’s overly tacky, entirely expectant red carpet dressing.  Not to mention the obsession with short and tight.  So he gives us radical elegance with a tulip long skirt in bright salmon, couture-style, flooring-grazing dresses in tangerine and rich cream.  The floor-grazing skirts and dresses carried high drama that would please any haute couture connoisseur.  Moreover, when Raf does deign to go short, it is still exuding refined grace.

Raf designs wonderful highly conceptual shapes for women.  I always equivocate him to a master artist sculpting his creations.  His form of volume has this lovely weight to it that does not overwhelm the person wearing it.  The jackets are easy yet structured; they float nicely around the body with intended movements.  Even that rain jacket elegant flutters behind the model as she walks.  And those eye-boggling trousers?  They are divine.  Even in black, one can easily see the quality of them.  They nicely shape the leg without overly conforming to it.  No one quite does minimalist like Jil Sander.  They absolutely own it in the industry.

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September 26, 2010

MaxMara Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Milan is making such a lovely lovely case for structured brights and bare backs.  MaxMara is like fun dressing for grown-ups.  The brights colors are young and fresh but in classic silhouettes with subtle baring of skin.  I love the easiness about the clothes, and that while the clothes are structured, they are not stiff.  There’s a nice shape to everything, especially the jackets.  The peacoat is transformed with metallic satin and a slightly belled shape.  I normally quite detest yellow, but I can’t help but like these happy offerings.  This yellow is warm and so very spring.  MaxMara has added so much more to their normal presentation of classics and expertly-crafted coats.

But the best thing about this collection?  Those tiny exposed cross-stitching seams on the dresses.  They are a touch of genius that elevate those minimalist dresses.

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September 24, 2010

Versace Spring 2011


Credit: Vogue.com

Hellooooo Milano!  So far we’ve seen a great return to high luxury and sexy silhouettes.  No quiet minimalist or romantic seventies looks for these ladies.  And of course Donatella does what she does best: sexy cut-outs and geometric shapes.  She brings us directly back into the heyday of nineties Versace: bright colors and happy embellishments.  However, it is all carefully controlled.  No maxi shapes for Donatella.  She gives us this new long length that everyone’s been raving out and sculpts it so that we get a clean new tight look.  It is well structured with tiny teasing glimpses of skin.

Make no mistake. Donatella is excellent at her craft.  People may only recall that particular Elizabeth Hurley safety-pin dress or that belly-baring dress Jennifer Lopez wore to the Grammys, but Donatella creates so much more than that.  I recently posted up her Fall 2010 Lookbook, and while the dresses are sexy, they do so much more than show lots of skin.  Donatella has a great understanding of a woman’s body and how the right dress can highlight all those curves.  And in this collection, she demonstrates excellent control and an understanding of structure without the sacrifice of glamour.  Oh and I positively adore those shoes.

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September 24, 2010

Gucci Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Forget the clothes, look at the beauty!  Nothing compares to a well-done face.  And thanks to Pat McGrath (makeup artist) and Luigi Murenu (hair-stylist), Gucci perfectly executed the Seventies Studio 54 beauty moment at its best.  The girls were positively glowing.  I believe that I saved more beauty shots for this collection than anything else.  That is not to say the clothes weren’t spectacular as well.  Applying a neon color-scheme (that did not hurt my eyes) with excellent gold accents, Gucci does what Gucci does best.   Frida Giannini stated that this is a collection is “a continuation and a celebration of who we are, and what we do.”  And she’s quite right.  She sends down rockstar-ready looks with high-refined glamour.  Giannini refuses to delve into the current trend of loose silhouettes and romantic seventies.  She’s ready to party with her seductive shapes and gilted edges.  She takes Gucci’s fans to a “place that’s sultry, sparkling, and always, but always, hot.” (from Mark Holgate’s review)

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September 24, 2010

N°21 Spring 2011

Credit: NY Magazine

Clean spring showing from N°21.  I like the way this minimalist trend is going for Spring.  While it has mainly given sway towards the high glamour of the 70s, this collection makes a compelling argument for a non-fussy clean look for spring.  The lines are nice; they are well-balanced in terms of steam-lined and volume.  And those shoes remind me of the sandal loafers that I wore all the time in the 90s.  Lovely little tribute to the Helmut Lang-era minimalist street style.

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