It feels a little strange to revisit Haider Ackermann out of cycle. I always find it much easier to write reviews while riding the initial high of first impressions. Through from my previous notes on this collection, I found Ackermann’s experiment with a strictly, monochromatic palette a rather bleak depart from his richly hued collections in seasons past. But looking back at it now, feelings certainly can change. While the austere theme felt too severe at the time, I now find the color scheme refreshing in a season that is often associated with pastels. More importantly, all the seductive elements to Haider Ackermann’s aesthetic remain firmly in tact for Spring 2013.
It seems that I fall a bit in love with Haider Ackermann every season. I find the strength and fragility depicted in his collections utterly compelling. Moreover, the presentation is as lovely as the pieces themselves. I love the slow, languid walk accompanying each look as the it allows for a thorough, thoughtful perusal of every detail. Ackermann slows his audience down from the frenetic pace that comes with the rapid tour of shows during Fashion Month. I love that it causes me to pause and more fully appreciate his beautifully deconstructed clothes. And for Spring 2013, he transitions us from the romantic bustle of Fall to something a bit sterner. The dramatic peplums and artfully arranged scarves have been replaced with sharp, clean tailoring and delicate camisoles hanging by a single precarious thread. The wide leather cummerbunds have carried over from last Fall, providing an intriguing counterpoint to the tuxedo jackets which happen to be neatly opened to the waist. Which is somewhat of a marvel considering the potential mishaps that could occur. And while the signature architectural shapes remain, the stark palette adds a rather severe air to the entire collection. However, this is when things become interesting. Ackermann manages to convey his sense of serene insouciance in spite of this severity. For all the structured tailoring, there is a nonchalance to how the fabric settles as if the jacket or dress could be easily shrugged off at any moment. I love the juxtaposition of the masculine suiting, with its sharp edges and neat tucks, and the revealing silk and lace leaving a flow of whimsy and sex appeal in its wake. So while this collection was not my favorite of his, Haider Ackermann still easily seduces me with this study of contrasts.