If anything, Calvin Klein is certainly the place to find lingerie-style little slip dresses. Francisco Costa takes this to a whole different level with his interpretation of the feminine ideal hourglass figure. In doing so, he brings back the haute couture glamour of the Christian Dior New Look and merges it with the sensuality of a forties pinup and the nineties elegance of Carolyn Bessette. The end result is something highly sculpted and yet innately modern. To borrow from Mr. Bowles, “Costa used stiff fabrics–silk gazar and duchess satin–often bonded with acetates, and draped and manipulated them to stand up on their own.” I love how Costa has layered sheer overlay in a variety of ways, producing different effects of translucency in each look. Also, the embroidered patterns of leather piping create a rather fabulous cage-like structure over sheath gowns. Overall, this collection is superbly put together, elegantly referencing design history while creatively reinterpreting it into the Calvin Klein DNA.