Raf Simons’ last collection for Jil Sander is at once poignant, thoughtful, and so so very pretty. With his exquisite craftsmanship and masterful execution, Raf Simons stuns his audience with the quiet strength of his collection. There is a deceptive simplicity about his designs that melds charming femininity with subtle modernism. Blush pink, soft lavender, and creamy beige are gracefully rendered into luxurious coats and delicate slip dresses for a rather elegant take on a customarily trite color palette. Whereas rich navy and a rather splendid poppy red truly pop amidst this understated color scheme. I love how effortless it all feels. Gorgeous coats with their precise lines (and lack of buttons) easily shrug open to reveal gracefully intricate slip dresses. The geometric blend of knit, gauze, and jersey provides a modernity to the classic silhouette. Further, with this arresting display of architecture, Simons reveals an unerring eye and deft touch that prevents the origami lines within the piece from becoming overwrought.
Midcentury Haute Couture, heralded by the likes of Christian Dior (rather apt considering Simons’ latest landing), is readily apparent with this display of impressive restraint and impeccable craftsmanship. I love the sort of old world gravitas that he brings to the table and how it is balanced by an airy lightness shown throughout the collection. And in the end, Simons’ minimalist vision makes for a rather reflective and emotional farewell to Jil Sander to a well deserved standing ovation.
And as always, Hamish Bowles has a superb review of this collection.