Generally, Milan is usually the city I skim over the most in Fashion Month as its display of flamboyant extravagance and blaring “sexiness” does not normally suit my own tastes. However, I have been rather pleasantly surprised with the darker and more sophisticated direction it has taken for the Fall 2012 season. In particular, Peter Dundas reveals a rather intriguing collection as it is a decided depart from Dundas’ typical skin-baring suggestiveness. Without losing the sensuality embedded in the core of Emilio Pucci’s aesthetic, Dundas delves into menswear with a decidedly feminine edge.
To begin with, Dundas builds his collection on a luxe foundation of fur, patent leather, alligator skin, and silk print. While silk print has always been a part of the Emilio Pucci house, the other fabrics are well-introduced. Coats and dresses alike are wonderfully spliced to reveal a silk gauze paneling whereas the alligator skin pattern are transferred onto chiffon dresses in velvet devore style. Moreover, tuxedo jackets and structured trousers take the focus for Fall 2012 and are made a bit more provocative when paired with sheer silk paneling. Dundas’ exploration of black becomes a whole lot more interesting with his sense of form and cutting. Without a doubt, I have greatly enjoyed Emilion Pucci growing up from its hallmark of flirty print dresses to a house grounded with structured tailoring and tastefully sculpted evening gowns.