Alexander McQueen Spring 2012



[Note: Long overdue I know. I love how I get to this about 5 days before the fall shows start up]

“I was thinking about a woman as an object of desire. We go to such lengths to adorn ourselves that we almost become our clothes or are taken over by them. This is a collection about excess – an exploration of ideals of beauty at their most extreme.” -Sarah Burton

It has certainly been a while since I’ve watched the Spring shows, but one never has to worry about feeling uninspired with the house of Alexander McQueen.  Their pieces are always exquisite.  But I digress.

It has been quite a remarkable year for Sarah Burton.  While many know her name thanks to a certain newly-minted Royal, Burton is carrying on the legacy of Lee McQueen with startling strength and romance.  She has softened up the McQueen aesthetic while still maintaining that fantastical couture element to it; Spring 2012 is full of dramatic flounces and exquisite detail.  In a lot of ways, she has brought back the feeling of classic McQueen with her under-the-sea vision of romantic, futuristic warriors.  For this is certainly not a collection for the faint of heart.  Elaborate face masks and S&M details dominate a runway punctuated with vibrant coral and shocks of black.

This season, Alexander McQueen has provided us with a dose of fetish decadence.  There is a delightful sense of drama and sensuality in this that I was immediately drawn too.   Sarah Burton effortlessly blends glamorous grandeur with sensual seduction, providing looks that are both fiercely confident and innately feminine.  Personally, I found the laced ribbon winding up the model’s legs to be particularly sexy (looks 19-21) and loved the addition of the lace headgear partially obscuring the her eyes.

Moreover, every look is intensely corsetted and strictly controlled with bedecked bodices of seashell and coral reef acting like gilted armor.  While such a strictly controlled silhouette has the danger of coming across stiff and overly conceptual, the technique of Burton and the McQueen atelier allows for great fluidity.  There is a beautiful movement to the fabric with the frothy flounces and tiers fluttering about the model for dramatic impact.  And there is certainly plenty of whimsy to complement the stately structure.  Romantic babydoll dresses and ruffled peplums help balance out the fiercely tailored looks, all accentuated with a dreamy spring palette.   Yet, even the more whisical pieces don’t feel trite.  I love how Burton has crafted together a collection that manages to be elegant, imaginative, and playful all in one.

Sarah Burton is capable of translating her inspiration into reality in a most astonishing manner.   In this case, an oceanic theme and imparted McQueen history have been crafted together to present a fantastically modern and relevant showing.  The details are impeccable.  Metallic and speckled gowns truly appeared composed of a seabed of shells while intricately patterned pearl and coral cut-outs decorated sea goddesses.   The effect of the skirt (in look 29) as Iris walked by left me absolutely breathless.  In fact, this entire show leaves one rather breathless.  The work and technique of the McQueen house are truly incredible.  I don’t believe that any other atelier would have been able to pull this off with this much conviction.  And that puts Sarah Burton (and with her, the legacy of Alexander McQueen) in a class of her own.

Watch the show here.

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3 Comments to “Alexander McQueen Spring 2012”

  1. A true master piece, his work can never get old.

    Luv it!


  2. Holy Crap! This is so artistic! I would never want to wear it, but I really really like it!

  3. i would l-o-v-e to wear it… i would feel like a fantastically royal creature! props to burton for carrying on the house name with grace.

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