Marni Spring 2012


My one and only Milano post for this season.

I had instantly adored Marni Spring 2012 from the get go.  There is something very fresh and wonderfully quirky about Consuelo Castiglioni’s take on sixties mod.  She certainly has a way with print and color; her vision for Spring 2012 is well thought out and beautifully streamlined into easy sheath dresses.  More importantly, this is hardly a retro rendition of sixties styling.  The brightness of monochromatic geometric prints and textured hounds-tooth brocade is inescapable, but Castiglioni has a way of calming the madness.  In fact, rather than giving me a headache, I found her geometric prints a vibrantly stark standout in a sea of pastel.  Her intriguingly unusual color combinations and fearless (and most certainly skillful) mix of patterns give us vibrancy without overwhelming us; we are treated to a collection that is wonderfully modern.  The fall-like mesh (look 28), in particular, is fabulously innovative; the colors should not work together but they totally do.  Moreover, by breaking up the line with multiple hemlines, Castiglioni gives us a unique take on color blocking.  I love the idea of tailored sheaths layered over sheer silk and how the tiered layers lead to a different outlook on peplum.

What I love the most, however, is how effortless the execution feels.  Consuelo Castiglioni’s mix of texture and pattern never spins out of control, is never too ambitious.  The silhouette remains judiciously minimalist with clean lines and well-placed layering.  Even then, the classic tailoring of the sheath dress never feels too strict.  And nipping in the waist with well-placed cut-outs is a great touch.  There is a balance to this collection that is a wonder to watch unfold.  Everything comes to together, resulting some seriously chic pieces.

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