Antonio Berardi Spring 2012

Credit: Vogue.com

“Was I deceiv’d, or did a sable cloud turn forth her silver lining on the night?” – Milton

For all the ethereal chiffon floating about, Antonio Berardi certainly knows how to ground his idea of clouds with a silver lining.   And what a lining it is.  Berardi has armored his girl with metallic patent leather which has wound its way up the chiffon and crepe in gorgeously elaborate embroidery.  They are more obviously seen as intricate breastplates encased in the gowns that opened the show, adding a touch of edge to an otherwise sweet evening gown.  Moreover, his particular brand of romanticism feels very modern.  The exquisitely tailored sheath dresses and sharp shouldered jackets lose none of the intricacy but provide a very structured counterpoint to the fluid peacock train of the gowns.  And while the silhouettes remain classic, they hardly feel like the reliable staples we have come to know.

Berardi’s play on texture is intriguing.   He shifts the idea of soft and tough by turning lacquered leather romantic and crepe strong, making his spring both wonderfully fluid and elegantly controlled.  There is a confidence to this collection that is lovely to see.

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2 Comments to “Antonio Berardi Spring 2012”

  1. This collection is GORGEOUS!

  2. Love this collection – simple elegance! :-) Jen xoxo http://mystylisticlife.wordpress.com

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