Proenza Schouler Spring 2012


Proenza Schouler has managed to grow up without losing any of its nonchalance or innovation.  Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez has taken kitschy elements from the fifties, added in tribal earthiness of the safari, and woven them into a rather sophisticated and coolly polished collection.  With so many references, one would think that this would result in a hodgepodge of retro pieces and loud prints.  And that would likely happen–if this were anyone else.  However, these boys hardly lose any of their modernity or wit with Spring 2012.  In fact, they have fashioned together something that is effortlessly urban, playfully creative, and utterly them.

That being said, this type of style is definitely not suited to my own.  I have no great love of kitsch or safari-themed clothes.  And I rarely enjoy a loud print.  Jack and Laz made me love this in spite of that.  Certainly, there is a sassiness to the walk and each look that I immediately glommed into.  In fact, I was enthralled by the way the pieces moved in general.  Each has a lovely flow about it, molded into sharp silhouettes and sleek lines.   But it takes more than that for me.  Many designers can control shape and give clean lines.  However, few, if any but these two, would think to craft them out of deeply lacquered leather reminiscent of fifties diner booths (left).  Or turn poodle skirts revealing by weaving them out of slicked raffia (right).  I have a great appreciation for Jack and Lazaro’s creativity if anything else.

Overall, I love how modern their spring feels.  Even with the bags shaped like vintage camera cases (which utterly awesome by the way) (see above), there is an edge to the look.  Clean sheath dresses have been expertly formed out of spliced patterns, including flashes of zebra print and conscientious color-blocking.  Eel-skin side wrap skirts are shown in electrifying blue and orange while collegiate strips are given a twist glossy leather.  And the boys certainly do not limit themselves to earthy tones: sea-foam green and soft turquoise make appearances amid the autumnal color palette.  So in the end, Jack and Lazaro have taken seemingly far removed references and have bound them into a cohesive collection full of edge and elegance.

[Final notes: Love both the incongruousness of the messy hair and the hilarious shag carpet.  Well done boys.]

For further detail on the references (and a much better review), read Hamish Bowles.

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One Comment to “Proenza Schouler Spring 2012”

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