I am terribly glad that Zac Posen has returned to New York. While Paris was certainly an interesting experiment, his two collections fell far from the mark with Spring 2011 feeling too contrived and Fall 2011 too restrained. I felt that he was trying too hard. Showing once again in New York, this collection was a return to the dramatic flair and old school glamour that Zac is so good at without falling into the realm of camp. I have always loved the feeling of haute couture and luxury that Zac Posen has provided. He understands the drama and opulence of high fashion, providing a real sense of stage and show. And given his excellent technique, he can bring back true glamour.
As proven here, Zac excels at evening luxury. These gowns are meant to be worn and seen. Moreover, the construction of the bodice to the gowns is very deliberate. The structure is similar to that of lingerie and shapewear. There is almost a sense of propriety along with the sensuality of the figure. To offset the strict shape of the upper body, Zac has added a wonderfully fanciful full skirt which fans out with great splendor. With romanticism in abundance, Zac has made the silhouette of the thirties and forties his niche. And everyone knows how I like a well-executed throwback. With great care and seductive details, Zac has brought us back to his beginning, reinforcing his own aesthetic. Let’s hope he figures out how to shift forward without losing it.
I leave you with the vision that is Eniko Mihalik. I didn’t quite expect to see just so much of her (I couldn’t help but notice. She has a fabulous body). Clearly demonstrating his technique, the bodice manages to defy gravity.