This was one of those collections that had to grow on me. While each look was very certainly unique and memorable, I couldn’t see past the eclectic-ness at first. But in the end, I realized that this is actually a very rag & bone aesthetic, but with a New York City street remix of Norway, Scotland, and the Arctic Circle winter gear. And while a great deal of the color combos I simply can’t get behind, I can appreciate what David Neville and Marcus Wainwright are trying to achieve. What I find truly masterful is their play on texture. The unique piecing together of the fabrics is so masterfully done. I recognize their handiwork all over it. Which is important when you’re attempting to build a brand empire like they are.
I wouldn’t personally wear a good number of this collection, but I can really get behind their craft. I am a major fabric person. And I know David and Marcus are as well; they research like none other. The texture and nuance to every piece are wonderfully wrought, from the deep burgundy leather inlet into the creamy wool to the quilted accents on a smooth sportswear jacket. I could really get into the collection because of those touches. I especially can’t stop looking at the contrast in texture between the Aran fringing and the sharp pleats in look 6. It’s just so brilliantly thought out. And those banded leg warmers/thigh highs are fabulous. They look terribly terribly soft and comfy. I want them. *_* What an excellently chic way to keep warm. Pair them with some kickass heeled hiker boots, and I’m good to go.
So this collection isn’t as covetable as their fall 2010 showing, but Marcus and David manage to translate their cool downtown feel to whatever influence they’re feeling at the moment. I can’t help but love them for staying so true to their girl. It’s not easy to maintain that vision. Lovely craftsmanship as per usual boys.
The only problem I really have with this presentation is the hair. It reminds me too much of the look from Givenchy Spring 2011 back in October. A little easier and a bit more mused perhaps, but but still distinct (see look 2). But I guess Givenchy can’t rule the rights to it. Just like how many collections copied Alexander Wang’s side braid after that epic Spring 2009 presentation. And on that hair note, WHAT HAPPENED TO DAVID NEVILLE’S???? I didn’t recognize him without that ponytail of his. I’m a little sad. His look was so charmingly devil-may-care Londoner. I will miss it.