Chic classic YSL. With spectacular tailoring and intricate finishing touches, Stefano Pilati creates an utterly YSL collection. It’s difficult to miss the references to YSL throughout fashion month with smoking jackets, longer lengths, jumpsuits, and tuxedo jackets floating about. And of course, the utter chic feel to everything. However, even if the designer is worthy (such as Stella), none do it quite like YSL. And while Yves St. Laurent is no longer with us, Stefano Pilati has managed to capture the utter essence that is St. Laurent. Depicting exquisite tailoring, Pilati left many of the pieces untouched by embellishment but leaves tiny finishing touches in the thin gold chain holding together a neckline or a tiny gold cuff griping a halter. Moreover, this collection is beautifully lined with bold black edges to a white skirt (that bolded tilted pocket is positively enlightened) or gold lining a thin band around the waist. These little things prevent the collection from entirely recycling YSL’s admittedly rich history archive.
Pilati adds some girlish moments in as well. While YSL specialized in menswear-inspired clothing, Pilati mixes in some romantic seventies with vibrant ruffle dresses, ruffle-edged textured skirts, and perfectly knotted bows. There appears to be some Spanish flair as well with flamenco style dresses with a skirt the flutters about the model’s feet. Pilati gives volume, but it carefully controlled, adding structure and well-defined flow along the body. And Pilati has this wonderful sense of proportion. For example, I cannot get over this one jumpsuit. The proportions to it are pitch- perfect; especially with little slits at the waist. It excellently emphasizes the waist while displaying the curves of a woman’s body. And the amount of skin shown on top is controlled by the sleekness of the loose silk of the pant. And there’s that tiny gold-lined band around the waist again. I love how it cuts above the top of the pants in the back as well. I guess it also helps that it’s Jac who’s wearing it :)
Stefano Pilati has done an excellent YSL-worthy collection.