Archive for September, 2010

September 21, 2010

The Talented Miss Mulligan


Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Carey Mulligan by Peter Lindbergh for Vogue US October 2010

This is actually my favorite Vogue US issue in a good long while.  Although American Vogue has an excellent team of Grace Coddington, John Powers, Patrick Demarchelier, Hadley Freeman and many others helmed by Anna Wintour, it often falls short of the mark.  While they always have an impressively thick September issue, it’s generally a matter of quality vs. quantity at that point.  For once, Vogue has managed to intrigue me with their cover choice (the ever lovely young wonder Carey Mulligan) and has not tried to shove commercialism down my throat.  They have moved from their standard fare of editorials for this issue.  Peter Lindbergh  is probably partly the reason for this improvement; it’s his first cover for them in 20 years.  Not to mention, this is Creative Director Grace Coddington’s rare work with an actress.  She usually focuses more on the clothes and how they look in front of the camera rather than work with a celebrity.  This was shot near Peter’s vacation home in the South of France in Arles.  And Carey’s in Parisian haute couture.

Peter Lindbergh is special; he is probably one of the last great photographers today.  Moreover, he does not deal in digital photography.  There is no photoshop, and he shoots exclusively in old school film cameras.  And yet, he has this lovely timeless romantic aesthetic that many photographers strive to emulate but fall short of the mark.  He has found a natural subject in Carey Mulligan.  She does not try too hard, and she does not “model” the clothes.  She simply is herself in front of the camera while doing the haute couture justice.  For once, I feel that this is actually about the couture and not the actress wearing it.  The shot above features a Givenchy Haute Couture by Riccardo Tisci tulle dress with embroidered silk-chiffon lace and beaded corset.  Riccardo Tisci’s meticulous alabaster beading on a corset has drawn comparison to the coveted porcelain of Nymphenburg.  I give you all the details about this one particular dress because I want people to admire it for the work of art it is.  And every single piece featured in Carey’s editorial is of the same caliber–whether that is the Dior Haute Couture iris-purple hand-painted satin organza and tulle gown or the Valentino Haute Couture silk organza dress.  Peter and Grace should be proud of themselves for this one.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Advertisements
September 21, 2010

Red Hot

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Karen Elson by Alexi Lubomirski for Harper’s Bazaar UK October 2010

Smoking hot.  Karen Elson glows in this editorial.   The fashion industry’s favorite redhead does a nice little feature for Harper’s Bazaar UK.  I love that they play up her red hair and give her highlights in various shades of red.  And there’s that ever popular red matte lip that’s been all over the Spring 2011 shows so far.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 21, 2010

Cara o Cuero

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Eniko Mihalik by Nico for Harper’s Bazaar Spain October 2010

Eighties high glamour at its best.  And I adore her hair.  It seems that Eniko’s hair has been taking the focus as of late in her editorials.   That’s ok with me; it is spectacular and so is she.  That shot with her head thrown back and she’s only wearing a jacket and boots is so Flashdance, I love it.  All-leather styling, doberman, metal fence…all the makings of a hardcore edgy yet glamorous editorial.  And I’m glad that fashion’s making a return towards luxury again.  It’s exactly as Michael Kors was envisioning as he sent down his Spring 2011 show (although probably not with this type of styling).  I especially like how in some of the later shots her poses makes it seem like she’s dancing.  I’m not normally a fan of Harper’s Bazaar Spain–it generally bores me–but there are touches of brilliance in this. Bravo.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 21, 2010

Fine China

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Danni Li by Henrique Gendre for ROUGE Magazine #3

Startlingly stunning beauty shoot.   While this is a superb makeup job and Danni’s absolutely flawless, it still creeps me out a little.  Because she’s frighteningly white, she appears demon-like against the red palette.  The high contrast allows for a creative concept with a simple palette of red, white, and black.  If I could pull off red hair like that, I would do it in a heartbeat.   Moreover, I really like the placement of her hands.  Although the focus is undoubtedly her face, her hands add that extra touch to an already well-executed shoot.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 20, 2010

Her Dark Materials

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Magdalena Frackowiak by Catherine Servel for The Sunday Telegraph September 2010

She’s terribly cute.  Although the styling is sexy, Magdalena comes across more cute than anything.  And it totally works.  At most, I can say there’s a naive sensuality about her.  I like it though.  There’s so many “sexy” editorials where the girl is just simply trying too hard.  And as Carine Roitfeld says “If you’re going to be sexy in a photo, you’d better be thinking about sex rather than about being sexy.”  Magdalena has a playfulness and naturalness in this editorial.  And I don’t know if she’s thinking about sex, but she’s certainly not thinking about being sexy.  She’s just doing it.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 20, 2010

Erdem Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Initial reaction: so prettttttty, she squeals.  That’s exactly what happened. No joke.  It’s a beautifully crafted collection that will delight young and old alike.  The angelic lace confections had the right amount of enticing peeks of skin.  The print dresses were unlike any I’ve seen with delicately etched flowers painted on the dress itself.

And those shoes!  I’m such a shoe-aholic and a total sucker for shoes that lace high up the calf.  The cool thing about these is the matching print to some of the dresses.  They complement the look without being too matchy -matchy and stop the look from being romantic head-to-toe.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 20, 2010

Acne Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Serious fashion clout.  Acne presented in Princess Margaret’s apartment at Kensington Palace.  This Swedish line has been a fan favorite for a while now for their clean lines, excellent basics, and well-crafted jeans.  Out of all the minimalist I’ve seen for Spring, I like this one the most.  There’s a really seventies feel with the sunglasses but that was the clever part.  They play right into the seventies fascination and softness with tiny little details.   Jonny Johansson subtly weaves in a romantic softness amidst the clean lines with fluttery silks and easy shapes.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 19, 2010

Proenza Schouler Spring 2011

Sometimes, there is a house the just defies all expectation.  And the evolution that occurs manges to both astonish and delight viewers and critics alike.   That is precisely what Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have done.  Those two have always won fans and critical acclaim alike with their previous work, but this collection has blown all of their previous showings out of the water.  I don’t quite think anyone knew what he/she was in for as the wait for Proenza Schouler began and when that first girl (Julia Nobis) walked down that walkway, you could see the ripples of reaction.  Jack + Laz have managed to stay true to their aesthetic while creating something entirely new for them.   They have utterly eschewed the seventies/nineties reprisals everyone’s been throwing out this week and crafted together a collection that is so utterly them while being refined and at ease.  No wonder, they’ve been keeping this under wraps; even the special preview for Vogue gave absolutely no indication of what was to come.

Moreover, the clothes are so excellently done; Jack + Laz strike the right balance of sexiness (with half-corsets seen underneath translucent dresses and peekaboo lingerie) and elegant (with tweed and and fitted silhouettes).    They maintain their cool-girl vibe with badass knee-high sandals and a tie-dye palette.  They’ve challenged themselves by taking their tie-dye fascination and fashioning it into new concepts that’s entirely unique to them.   The “recurrent shibori theme of the centuries-old Japanese craft technique that dramatically puckers the surface of a garment” brought something new to the table on an age-old technique.  Their vision for Spring 2011 essentially is this: “shibori silk tees, dresses, and skirts in colors super-intense (electric pink, acid yellow) or soft (apricot, lavender), worn with seamed silk tweed jackets and straight-cut canvas pants, and all accessorized with sixties-like pointed pumps.”

And I’ll say this again and again: I absolutely adore Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.  They continue to thrill me, surprise me, and excite me about fashion.  They fascinate me as personalities and impress the hell out of me with their creativity.  They have warranted every single syllable of praise that they’ve been given since the beginning.  They continue to set a standard of excellence with their unique take on clothes.  And moreover, this happens to be the one collection that I choose to save in its entirety.  I have only ever done this with Alexander McQueen’s last collection and Olivier Theysken’s last collection for Nina Ricci.   They are in company of the best.  And I hope that others will see what I see: something magical.

Please see Vogue‘s review on this collection; Mark Holgate has the true expertise to do this justice.

Edit: And for those who missed the runway show, you can watch it here.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 17, 2010

Marchesa Spring 2011

 

Credit: Vogue.com

 

Words hardly describe the beauty that is Marchesa.  Now it is nothing new in terms of aesthetic, but by God, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have outdone themselves.  When I think I can’t be more impressed with what Marchesa has to offer, my preconceptions get blown away.  Every dress is a work of art.  Valentino creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, talked about weaving the fairytale in their last collection, but they have got nothing on Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig.  This is the fairytale.  I’ve never seen so many unbelievably remarkle, delicately beautiful, achingly feminine creations before.  What Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig dream up are masterpieces of design.  Origami paper folds, ribboned chiffon dramatically bowed, jewel-encrusted corset bodices, tumbling tulle cascades…they are truly artists at work.

They are experts at delivering high drama and glamor with absolutely breathtaking designs.  And I’m afraid that my entire thought process has degenerated into happy flailing and effusive incoherent praise for Marchesa and that this post has truly turned into mush.  Forgive me.

I couldn’t resist one last feature shot.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

September 17, 2010

Lindsey Wixson by Olivier Zahm

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Lindsey Wixson by Olivier Zahm for Purple Fashion FW 2010

To think I just saw snapshots of this without any of the details and then it magically appeared!  Lindsey Wixson looks amazing shot by Olivier Zahm.  I’m a little surprised.  Olivier Zahm isn’t exactly known for being classy.  But I really like this.  I’ve liked Lindsey Wixson since her debut for Prada; she’s positively adorable.  And that pout!  Anyway, she’s her adorable self in this shoot of Yasmine Eslami’s (Purple editor-in-chief) favorite pieces of the season.  What really grabs me about this is the naturalness of it.  Lindsey has an ease of movement that comes across on camera.   I’m not terribly focused on the clothes and I think that’s the point.  I really like the contrast between the polished Lindsey and the wrecked atmosphere behind her.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.