Archive for September 26th, 2010

September 26, 2010

Emilio Pucci Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Well Pucci certainly doesn’t pretend to be what it isn’t.  Peter Dundas turns up the sexiness (this is Italy after all) in his latest collection for Emilio Pucci.  Big on prints, big on skin, and big on ruffles.  Considering it’s history, this is decidedly a very Pucci collection; no one quite does sexiness like the Italians.  Dundas gives me saucy cut-outs, neat lace-ups, and gothic crosses.   How could I not love it?

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September 26, 2010

Jil Sander Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

In anyone could make the case for bright neon elegance, it is Raf Simons.  The Jil Sander Creative Director was despairing over today’s overly tacky, entirely expectant red carpet dressing.  Not to mention the obsession with short and tight.  So he gives us radical elegance with a tulip long skirt in bright salmon, couture-style, flooring-grazing dresses in tangerine and rich cream.  The floor-grazing skirts and dresses carried high drama that would please any haute couture connoisseur.  Moreover, when Raf does deign to go short, it is still exuding refined grace.

Raf designs wonderful highly conceptual shapes for women.  I always equivocate him to a master artist sculpting his creations.  His form of volume has this lovely weight to it that does not overwhelm the person wearing it.  The jackets are easy yet structured; they float nicely around the body with intended movements.  Even that rain jacket elegant flutters behind the model as she walks.  And those eye-boggling trousers?  They are divine.  Even in black, one can easily see the quality of them.  They nicely shape the leg without overly conforming to it.  No one quite does minimalist like Jil Sander.  They absolutely own it in the industry.

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September 26, 2010

MaxMara Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Milan is making such a lovely lovely case for structured brights and bare backs.  MaxMara is like fun dressing for grown-ups.  The brights colors are young and fresh but in classic silhouettes with subtle baring of skin.  I love the easiness about the clothes, and that while the clothes are structured, they are not stiff.  There’s a nice shape to everything, especially the jackets.  The peacoat is transformed with metallic satin and a slightly belled shape.  I normally quite detest yellow, but I can’t help but like these happy offerings.  This yellow is warm and so very spring.  MaxMara has added so much more to their normal presentation of classics and expertly-crafted coats.

But the best thing about this collection?  Those tiny exposed cross-stitching seams on the dresses.  They are a touch of genius that elevate those minimalist dresses.

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