Sometimes, there is a house the just defies all expectation. And the evolution that occurs manges to both astonish and delight viewers and critics alike. That is precisely what Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have done. Those two have always won fans and critical acclaim alike with their previous work, but this collection has blown all of their previous showings out of the water. I don’t quite think anyone knew what he/she was in for as the wait for Proenza Schouler began and when that first girl (Julia Nobis) walked down that walkway, you could see the ripples of reaction. Jack + Laz have managed to stay true to their aesthetic while creating something entirely new for them. They have utterly eschewed the seventies/nineties reprisals everyone’s been throwing out this week and crafted together a collection that is so utterly them while being refined and at ease. No wonder, they’ve been keeping this under wraps; even the special preview for Vogue gave absolutely no indication of what was to come.
Moreover, the clothes are so excellently done; Jack + Laz strike the right balance of sexiness (with half-corsets seen underneath translucent dresses and peekaboo lingerie) and elegant (with tweed and and fitted silhouettes). They maintain their cool-girl vibe with badass knee-high sandals and a tie-dye palette. They’ve challenged themselves by taking their tie-dye fascination and fashioning it into new concepts that’s entirely unique to them. The “recurrent shibori theme of the centuries-old Japanese craft technique that dramatically puckers the surface of a garment” brought something new to the table on an age-old technique. Their vision for Spring 2011 essentially is this: “shibori silk tees, dresses, and skirts in colors super-intense (electric pink, acid yellow) or soft (apricot, lavender), worn with seamed silk tweed jackets and straight-cut canvas pants, and all accessorized with sixties-like pointed pumps.”
And I’ll say this again and again: I absolutely adore Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. They continue to thrill me, surprise me, and excite me about fashion. They fascinate me as personalities and impress the hell out of me with their creativity. They have warranted every single syllable of praise that they’ve been given since the beginning. They continue to set a standard of excellence with their unique take on clothes. And moreover, this happens to be the one collection that I choose to save in its entirety. I have only ever done this with Alexander McQueen’s last collection and Olivier Theysken’s last collection for Nina Ricci. They are in company of the best. And I hope that others will see what I see: something magical.
Please see Vogue‘s review on this collection; Mark Holgate has the true expertise to do this justice.
Edit: And for those who missed the runway show, you can watch it here.