Archive for September 15th, 2010

September 15, 2010

Michael Kors Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Michael Kors makes me really like American fashion.  In recent years, he has really become this generation’s authority on All-American style.  And he’s an excellent marker of history for the past decade or so.  He designs for the times.  And for Spring 2011, he envisions the transition back into luxury and opulence.   With a heavy dose of taste, of course.  While we see the hallmark of American sportswear in the t-shirt, sweatshirt, tank dress, and the trench, do no mistake these for mere basics.  Michael Kors upholds a quality of craftsmanship that goes beyond American basics cheaply churned out for the masses.  I can recognize his design by quality alone.  Everything has a Michael Kors feel to it: that slim brown belt strategically placed, those long shoulder bags, that linen suit.

And if he’s to go by, we all have something to rejoice about.  We have all been hit by hard times in recent years.  Michael Kors is living testament and visible marker.  We’re not out of the gates quite just yet.  But we’re getting there.  And that’s something beautiful about fashion.  It survives.  It is what’s left over and part of what other generations will remember this generation by.   How much more significantly cultural can you get?

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September 15, 2010

Inspiration – NYFW edition part deux

Credit: Vogue.com

Credits: The Sartorialist, Vogue.com, NY Magazine, StyleCaster

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September 15, 2010

Donna Karan Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

So far, Donna Karan is my favorite collection.  I loved practically every look.  Titled “Raw Romance,” it is just that.  She produces a papier-mâché effect to a lot of her clothes, deconstructing it just enough to make it interesting.  She gives us beautiful soft shapes that fall like a dream.  This is the spring I look for.  Romantic and slightly dilapidated with lovely raw edges.    It is gentle and elegant with bias cute dresses that give just enough to create an ease of movement but still gently crests the body and giving it shape.  Karan seems to be inspired by paper.  Crepe, silk, satin, you name it, is crushed and crinkled into malleable shapes.  They are transformed into sweeping lines and refined silhouettes that just seem to stroke the body.  Exposed seams add a natural finish to dresses, elevating the romance.  The palette is entirely neutral with creamy vellum to hammered gold.

Everything is beautifully wrought with a clear ease.  And carefully accented with messily swept updos and lids swept with gold, tawny, or bronze.

Donna Karan is organic and romantic with touches of angelic grace.

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September 15, 2010

Marc Jacobs Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Very Studio 54 (not that I was old enough to properly know what that is).  In any case, hedonism is back.  All the minimalist restraint for Fall 2010 has been cast away with fervor.  With Marc Jacobs leading the charge, it’s back to the glamour of the 70s for spring 2011.  I’m sure we’ll all be fed up with 90s minimalist by then.  While I absolutely adored his Fall 2010 collection, this collection is great fun.  And we need a little more of that in our lives.   It is rich with color and enraptured with Grace Coddington-like hair.  And with Francisco Nars doing the makeup, how could Marc go wrong?

With gigantic orchids sprouting out and serpentine sandals winding up, this is virtual garden of eden.  While this is not his most thoughtful collection, it’s not a  miss by any means.  It’s a great tribute to the heyday of the 70s with a very Marc twist.  And I’ll leave it to Hamish Bowles to better dissect this collection as he has the knowledge and expertise beyond my own: here.

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September 15, 2010

Rodarte Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Gilted at Rodarte.   It’s hard to find exactly what Kate and Laura Mulleavy are inspired by; it’s anything from Santa Cruz landscape of Sequoia redwood trees to Japanese samurais and Chinese Ming Dynasty.  The collection shows it all.  Yet, the collection is cohesive and well thought out .  While different from their previous work, there’s certainly a Rodarte feel to it all.  And what’s truly spectacular is the amount of detail and intricacy to it all.  Each piece is like a work of art with details that match perfectly to the inspiration.  The dresses truly look like Ming dynasty vases and redwood trees.  There’s samurai armor and gilted angelic gold.

It’s astonishing really.  The amount of craftsmanship that goes into it.  I’ve seen some incredibly detailed designers, but I believe Kate and Laura Mulleavy truly outshine them all.  They can inspired by the most far from fashion things and produce pieces that make me breathless in wonder.

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September 15, 2010

Vera Wang Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Vera may be in mourning for Roger Federer’s loss, but her collection certainly isn’t.  And if it is, then this is the chicest mourning I’ve seen.  Oh look, a poofy bouffant.  How did Vera know that I was hoping for just the thing?  As for her collection, I think “lots of tulle”  narrows it down nicely.  That women certainly has a free hand with it and I like it.  Vera’s always been known for her dresses (hello brides), but I’m more  interested in her ready-to-wear.    Her dresses will always be beautiful, but she needs to show that she has more in her arsenal.  And she does.   Those crepe-wrinkled shorts and skirts are divine.  The shape is so simple, yet the wrinkles add a whole new feel to them.  And those armor-like vests with zipper edges? J’adore.  I certainly wouldn’t mind going to battle in those.

Side note: I love how everyone always puts Frida and Jac next to each other in the line-up.  I know everyone does it; Vera just happened to be the latest that I saw who did this.

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September 15, 2010

Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring 2011

Credit: NY Magazine

I love what Maria Cornejo does.  She’s a Chilean refuge living in Manchester, England but has lived in London, Paris, Milan, Tokyo, and New York.  Quite the well-seasoned global trotter, her collection on a global perspective is truer than that of her peers who airily claim travel as an inspiration.  She’s lived it.  What she brings to the table is brilliantly thought out and well crafted.  Anyone can bring out basics that sell well.   Her clothes may appear neutral but have this wonderful flow about them.  They fall just so and have this easiness about them.  You can clearly see the quality, even from far away.  Read the style.com review; they do it more justice than I can.

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