Maybe I should preface this. David Neville and Marcus Wainwright recently won the CFDA award for menswear and typically display a “utilitarian/biker/hard-girl look” for womenswear. Theirs is an aesthetic that I terribly love with their tough girl chic. Instead of riding high on their critical acclaim and producing a similar collection, Neville and Wainwright set out to re-examine military.
Spring 2011 depicts a depart from that much beloved aesthetic. Yet, the chiffon and lingerie tops (I’ll get to those later) that served as the collection foundation were so very Rag & Bone. Neville and Wainwright went a lot more romantic while maintaining their utilitarian sport look. Normally structured biker jackets are softened with lighter, bright fabric. And those lingerie assemblage of bondage-style suspenders (made by fellow CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund alum Jean Yu). Let’s have a look shall we?
How can I not rave about these? They’re truly inspired (North African deserts in fact). And perfectly suited to spring. Coupled with the sheer layers, they captured 50s lingerie with a sporty angle. Oh, and the lace in the pants? Derived from fighter-pilot G-suits, complete with zippers and D-ring buckle straps snaking up and down the legs.
Neville and Wainwright just keep getting better and better at what they do. You’d think that chiffon, North African deserts, and lingerie make for a spastic disorganized collection; however, Neville and Wainwright have it well in hand. And the result is well-done collection that demonstrates growth and creativity.
See the well-crafted review by Vogue.com.
Edit: ooh Fashionista just came up with a good word for their collection: ballsy