Salvatore Ferragamo has had a tough run of it lately. Cristina Ortiz never found the magic in her short period as creative director, churning out awkward collection after awkward collection. She just simply never found her stride. Anyway, Massimiliano Giornetti (the creative director for Ferragamo menswear) is being examined closely in his very first foray into women’s wear to see if he has the determination and talent to stay. And if this collection is anything to go by, he is more than up for the challenge. Having an eye for fit and tailoring (brought over from doing menswear), Giornetti crafts beautifully structured coats that have the right amount of volume and fit around a woman’s body (take the capelike coat worn by Abbey Lee in the first look shown here for example), showing a strong sense of outerwear. The colors are richly autumnal and looks show an appreciation for Ferragamo’s history in leather. It is a beautiful understated collection that cannot be mistaken for boring.
Chic, comfortable neutrals. The mark of a designer, I think, is their ability to design neutral. The pieces that make up the majority of a wardrobe. Theatrics are easier to do. They set the audience up for a certain reaction and have a flair for color and loudness. It’s the quietness and the general charm of a collection that is more difficult to attain.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have completely outdone themselves this time. They evoke a timeless high class style that is authentic in every sense of the word. Last season they brought us sexy romantics, now they focus on the more masculine side of women. Their collection is unbelievable. The sophistication and polish and high quality effort in it is well beyond most of the collections and products out today. They have brought us back to a time where quality is more valued over quantity. Their attention to detail (especially but not putting pants on the models to focus on the exquisite tailoring of the jackets) evokes the concept of “sartorialita,” or tailoring, Italian-style. One can clearly see an influence of Sicily with the use of black lace and widow dresses. It is a beautiful collection, one well above all the rest (and that’s saying something considering my favorite designers). This is the most quiet I’ve seen Dolce & Gabbana, but in the best possible way. Subdued cannot even be applied here. It is just exquisite, well-crafted clothes and pure organic design. This is a collection that I will most definitely remember.