A Haider Ackermann show is all-encompassing. Solemn, poetic, and other-worldly both in presentation and craftsmanship. Haider Ackermann leisurely entices his audience with every slow measured step down the runway. The quiet, long walk is unique to the Haider Ackermann presentation, allowing the audience a nice lingering perusal of each look.
I fall in love with Haider Ackermann every season. He has an astonishing talent for transforming the ordinary to extraordinary. And while he may reference a known silhouette or allude to a particular technique, he masterfully deconstructs it into something unique to his own vision. Moreover, there is always a punkish element to Ackermann’s aesthetic; I love the way he romanticizes traditionally edgy accents. Often this can be seen in the beauty and hair: this season it’s fiery copper streaks. Appropriately, the vivid color palette is equally as fiery.
While spring evoked the dandy spirit of Lord Byron, Fall 2012 was decidedly feminine with a long lean elegant line that highlights the female figure. I love how Haider Ackermann has suggested an astonishingly narrow waistline through deftly controlling the volume elsewhere. Elaborate hourglass silhouettes are crafted through gathering fabric beneath an architectural leather cummerbund before artistically falling into a gorgeous insouciant bustle. Wool coats, shantung blazers, and biker jackets are further deconstructed with dramatic peplums being intricately contained beneath a singular band. Satin, wool, and shantung scarves are artfully arranged around the décolletage with flourish. Sheath dresses are elegantly creased into origami-like folds at the waistline with a neckline daringly slit all that way to there. Every look is wonderfully dynamic, full of sweeping movement and dramatic contours. By the end of the show, Haider Ackermann has managed to slay his audience with every masterful stroke. Absolutely brilliant.
Please Hamish Bowles review for specific references. He certainly has a far more coherent review than I do.