Archive for February, 2012

February 13, 2012

Jason Wu Fall 2012

Credit: Vogue.com

In this exploration of his roots, Jason delves into archetypes commonly associated with Chinese culture: “Madame Mao/Chinese Warrior,” Qing Dynasty, and Hollywood’s version of the thirties and forties.  The result is a highly ambitious production that is full of richly dense fabrics and strictly controlled silhouettes.  While this is not my favorite of his, I can certainly appreciate the display of drama and decadence before me.  However, this collection has the danger of falling into the archetypes that Wu tries to subvert with his modern twist.  And he pulls it off for the most part.  Fall 2012 is a huge turnover from his sweetly elegant aesthetic in seasons past, and that isn’t necessarily a bad direction to head in.  The fact that he is even able to put on such a grandiose affair is indicative of the strength of his label at the moment, certainly something young designers should strive for.

Although the the strict structure is rather severe, I love the opulent fierceness that accompanies it.  His exploration of the power woman packed quite a punch from the moment she stormed from those crimson “palatial wooden doors” (Mower).   I particularly loved the abundance of brocade and mink; the indulgent tone to it had all the feeling of a haute couture house.  Moreover, the solid black piping was clearly placed with a great eye; they have such a lovely winding line about them in the midst of the structure.  Wu look a lot of risk with this collection, and while it didn’t leave me sitting awe, there are certainly plenty of intriguing notes to pay attention to.

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February 12, 2012

Creatures of the Wind Fall 2012

Credit: Vogue.com

Something about this quirky little label is making people sit up and pay attention.  And with good reason.  While the charming ease shown last spring landed it on Creatures of the Wind on CFDA Fashion Fund short list, this fall outing pairs fae myth with tailored craft in a delightfully vibrant manner.  I love the kitschy fantasy that Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters have spun.  They take us down the rabbit hole while also keeping us firmly entrenched in practicality.  In essence, they bring a bit of magic into our world with their striking color combinations and unique mixed media.  They also have an intriguing way of seeing the world.  The gladiator brogues are brilliant, providing both buckled edge and polished easiness.  And I really like their version of a fifties redux in slick leather.  Gabier and Peters charge forth with confidence, skillfully color-blocking textured fabrics and thoughtfully constructing mixed overlays. This collection  manages to be enchantingly feminine and sleekly modern.  Everything a young design duo should strive for.

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February 12, 2012

Wanderlust

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

 Marloes Horst by Will Davidson for Harper’s Bazaar Australia March 2012

Marloes looks absolutely gorgeous across this alight landscape.  Which is makes it funny that I choose to feature one of the black and white shots.  But that Haider Ackermann was just so perfectly suited to this.  I love how unexpectedly well-suited some of my favorite pieces (Haider Ackermann, Calvin Klein, The Row, and Tom Ford to name a few…) from the shows are to this golden cast savanna.   The styling is not typical “fashiony” safari either.  And while the texture can add edge to an otherwise fluid look, texture for this editorial provides depth and intriguing sophistication without losing any of  its serene insouciance.  The cream looks, in particular, have a lovely warmth to them when placed in this tawny backdrop.  And Marloes positively glows in this; her skin looks amazing against this golden terrain.  Her wispy soft curls are beautifully illuminated in the sunlight, adding to the dreamy romantic tone to this editorial.  I love the languid easy feel to this in general.  There is sort of sultry laziness about it that reminds me of an afternoon spent lounging in the heat of a summer’s day.  Something to make me long for summer for sure.

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February 11, 2012

Small Flowers Crack Concrete

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

 Mirte Maas by Hugh Lippe for Russh #44

Mirte looks so very pretty in the February issue of Russh.  There is a dreamy romanticism to her editorial that feels utterly befitting of a February issue.  And Mirte looks exceptionally pretty with natural makeup and softly mussed hair.  I love the charmingly rumpled air about her; nothing about this feels too carefully done.  There is something sweetly innocent about the ethereal white lace and light knit styling in spite of the fair amount of skin it exposes.  Mirte comes across more adorable than seductive.  And I love the setting of the dilapidated house as the peeling cracked paint and worn down wooden floorboards provide great contrast to the pristine white pieces.  The air of abandonment to the scenery just adds a sort of romantic frailty to the tone.   Moreover, I like how the varied texture in this editorial create an overall softness rather than adding edge.  I am most certainly picking up this issue when it releases in the US.

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February 11, 2012

L.A. Story

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

 Mini Anden by Koray Birand for Harper’s Bazaar Turkey February 2012

I adore Mini Anden.  I thought that she had stopped modelling in favor of acting and was very pleasantly surprised to find this editorial.  Despite the overexposed lighting to this, I like the pensive feel to it.  Mini displays poise and an almost untouchable sort of beauty here.  There is a quiet sort of elegance to this as well.  While the view is most certainly stunning from this open glass complex, Mini’s character isn’t really taking it in.  Instead, the viewer is privy to an internal moment of contemplation.  There is an intimacy to those moments that belay the perfectly polished beauty of this editorial.  Or perhaps I am reading a little too much into it.  Regardless, I am glad that Mini is still modelling and remains her ever-stunning self.

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February 11, 2012

Wilde Wellen

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

 Magdalena Frackowiak by Ben Hassett for Vogue Germany January 2012

Magdalena’s gloriously out-of-control diva curls are utterly fabulous.  And I love how her curls are creating new silhouettes all on their own.  I always find Ben Hassett silhouette-focused photography gorgeous, and he certainly has plenty of material to work with here.  [To see what I’m talking about, see the ever stunning Cameron Russell in “Equinox.”]  Beauty editorials are tough.  The numerous close-ups mean that a model must look flawless, and Magdalena certainly does.  Even behind her wild curtain of hair, she has such presence.  She gives some serious face in this and looks stunning all-around.  Moreover, I love the amount of texture and depth her curls have in this.  The way the light plays off of them is fantastic.  Absolutely. Gorgeous.

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February 11, 2012

a cool girl

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

 Josefien Rodermans by Naomi Yang for Vogue Taiwan December 2011

I must admit that I mainly like this editorial because of the colored streaks in her hair.  I like how they can stand out while still fitting into the color scheme.  But more importantly, they do fit the tone this is striving for so all the better! :)  What really sells this editorial is how effortless the styling is.  Mixing the runway pieces in such a relaxed manner make for a deftly cool statement.  I like how the edgy leather pieces from the recent collections have been translated into a downtown cool.  There is both a quirkiness and a polish to this, a hallmark of the nineties street fashion.  A nice little allusion to that period.

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February 11, 2012

Alla Kostromicheva by Emma Tempest for Vogue Russia February 2012

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Alla looks fantastic in those Gareth Pugh pieces. That is all.

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February 10, 2012

Natasha Markova by Mathieu Vladimir Alliard

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

Certainly one of the fiercest portrait series for a new model that I’ve seen in a good long while.  I love how edgy Natasha comes across in this.  The almost hostile stare is rather haunting in some respects as the feeling lingers even after one has stopped viewing this series.  Especially the last shot with her smeared makeup; there is an intensity to it that I really like.  It is rare for new models to make an impression quite like that.  And I love the mix of seventies quirk and sixties punk vibe this has going on.  The Lennon-esque sunglasses were an awesome detail to add, shifting the grittier punk styling into something a little more unexpected.  I like when editorials can surprise me.  This series managed to do that right out the gate with its intensity and Natasha’s fierce attitude.  Also, I love the variety in the shots with the focus and texture shifting from shot to shot.  This feels more like an art installation than a standard editorial, making this a really great start for Natasha Markova.

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February 10, 2012

Sweet Thing

Credit: Fashion Gone Rogue

 Lindsey Wixson by Will Davidson for Muse Winter 2011

I really love Will Davidson’s work.  The light and texture to it make for some beautifully illuminated editorials.  And this has all the warmth of a sun-lit afternoon.  Lindsey was a good choice for this particular editorial as she adds a bit of whimsy to Davidson’s romantic tone.  However, as charming as she is, I don’t believe that I would have found this editorial nearly as intriguing it weren’t for the color-blocked looks.  The white sheath dresses are particularly eye-catching as they provide one long continuous line.  They add a bit of chic polish to the cutesy sort of pretty that Lindsey provides.  Moreover that berry shirt dress pops out of nowhere, providing a rich counterpoint to all the golden-cast neutrals.  I also love how Davidson uses the background to add a bit of depth to the shot, making the perspective a bit more unexpected.  And although Lindsey has a rather gorgeous close-up in shot 4, I wish that her others would be equally as strong.  The heavy-lidded gaze can only work so many times in the same editorial.  In any case, she is still a little green so she’ll have some time to work out those kinks.

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