“Haider Ackermann’s lyrical collection began in Trappist silence, moved through stately seventeenth-century chords, and ended on a strident modern note—and to a ringing crescendo of applause.” – Hamish Bowles
I love that phrasing. It’s so poetic and utterly befitting of this poetic collection.
Haider Ackermann’s collections are always stunningly seductive. With highly unique and wonderfully dramatic designs, he makes me lust for his pieces like none other. Continuing with a kimono motif somewhat, he draws in his audience brilliantly with every artistic loop of the obi belt. He opens with dramatically covered up monochrome before delving fully into the tastefully revealing trademark of his. He seduces me further with every unexpected peek of skin I see. And I love the way he does geometric cuts and draping; no one else does it in this manner. His pieces are like wearable art; the fabric is cut into artful spirals with fluid silk draping all abound. Every time I view his collection again, I am even further drawn into his vision so forgive me if I don’t quite do this review justice. Hamish Bowles manages to articulate everything I cannot so please see read his review.
Ackermann has a penchant for the dramatic neckline and eye-catching banding. His collars are grandiose while his belt structure geometries are like a works of art. Each entire look is composed of such breathtakingly creative elements; I am riveted by every tiny detail. Moreover, he is a master colorist; he pairs vibrant jewel-tones in a manner that appears startling new. Each combination is striking. And embedded in this poetic flight of fancy, he places thoughtfully composed solid staples: tailored velvet blazers with deconstructed edges, liquid evening gowns, artfully worn leather tanks, and easy satin trousers.
However, as fantastic as all this is, his true brilliance lies in the sentiment of his clothes and how he reveals skin. Of which there is plenty. Yet, for all the dangerous placement of cut-outs or the abundance of back or navel revealed, none of it feels cheap or overly exposed. The feel to his clothes is so ineffably cool that it instills this immediate sense of desirability. Most women would not feel comfortable baring her navel or thigh quite to that extent, but yet Ackermann has his audience practically panting after his seductive designs. And that may be why, his collection will be the truly memorable one after the insanity of Fashion Month is over.