Archive for September 13th, 2010

September 13, 2010

Alexander Wang Spring 2011


Credit: Vogue.com

White-out at Alexander Wang.  Literally.  I know it was his inspiration and that there would be no black in this collection, but I didn’t exactly expect this.  It’s almost like he was inspired to design various painter overalls, clean or otherwise.  This collection was great depart from his normal aesthetic certainly, but I like it anyway.  I actually like it a lot better than his Fall 2010 collection.   Alexander Wang may be the king of the club scene, but he’s not opposed to moving in a cleaner direction.  And it’s not like he’s losing any of his edge.  As Derek Blasberg pointed out, if you could describe this collection in one word, it’d be nose-rings.  A surprising amount of models have pierced noses, which is interesting considering they’re supposed to be blank slates for casting directors (there I said it Fashionista, but probably not in the context you predicted).

Wang also have a habit of opening with the next great newcomer.  Last year it was Mirte Mass, this year baby-faced Britt Maren (just above, left).  I love the outfit he had her in.  The awesomeness is all in the details.  The slightly sheer paneling with that one strap hanging down.  It’s that one strap that really pulled the look together for me.  The thing about Alexander Wang is that everything seems perfectly basic except for one sneaky little quirk of perfection.  Take his famous Tees.  Perfectly worn in, ultra soft, and that one little pocket in front.

Can you believe that the models had no makeup on whatsoever?  Just bleached brows and moisturizer (M.A.C. Studio Moisture Fix in fact).  It’s kinda frightening in fact.  That models are that flawless close-up, even with the crazy pixel heavy, HD-obsessed technology world today.  Astonishing really.

And while this is a great depart from his urban street fashion style, this is very much an Alexander Wang Collection.  It reads his personality all over it.  It’s in the frayed edges, the sporty wedges, the unusual mix of fabric, the sharp accessories, and the light biker shorts peeking out.  Though, I am told that this is a reconstruction of the heydey of the nineties with “the cutaway, layered, street-casual clothes invented by Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester” (Thanks Vogue).  However, as I was born in 1990 (as with most of the models walking in this show, including Britt) this is news to me :)  And while editors and critics may grumble that this is recycling the nineties, I’m sure that Wang-ettes, including myself, will champion it anyway.   The power of Alexander Wang is that he reaches beyond the runway.  He is a street-style based designer and he manages to bring it back to the source.  Many have strived but few have reached his level of success, especially for one so young.  And as Vogue puts it, “in an industry which endlessly recycles its own past (and meanwhile, often struggles to communicate to the “real” world)  it’s curmudgeonly to begrudge Wang credit for that.”  That is that.

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September 13, 2010

Prabal Gurung Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

“I wanted to make clothes that look easy, but are impossible to make” – Prabal Gurung.  Well he certainly got that right.  This is deconstructed elegance at its best.  His use of sheer translucence was pitch perfect with peekaboo edges and unexpected placement.  The silhouettes are sleek and body-skimming without adhering to the lines of the body.  The shredded fabric atop nearly invisible opaque layers were a touch of brilliance.  It was a vision of effortlessness yet careful construction.  Skirts made of shredded tiered fabric reinvented a classic shape.  The carefully distressed edges to blazers and skirts added a bit of naturalness to a futuristic collection.  Also, prevented things from looking too perfect.  Translucent paneling added interest to an A-line skirt.

Moreover, white makeup boosted the already futuristic feel to Prabal’s collection.  The models looks positively angelic as they glided past.  It was the the only makeup on an otherwise clean face.  Prabal made sure to enhance the clean feel by leaving off jewelry.  Instead, the major accessories were the edgy Nicholas Kirkwood-designed heels.  Neon or neutral, they were icing on the cake of a stellar collection.

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September 13, 2010

Altuzarra Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

First off, it must have sucked following Alexander Wang seeing has he had white paint and clay baked into the models’ hair.  If I were Paul Hanlon, I would have been horrified to deal with that after if I had to prep girls for a show.  Anyway, Amazonian vibe at Altuzarra.  Almost everything was edged with snakeskin.  Moreover, the clothes cut close to the body resembled Amazonian armor at times.  Everything was deliberately crafted with military flair.  Asymmetrical edges were sliced with a controlled air.  What really caught my eye was the shock of neon UV glow-in-the-dark gel paint in the model’s hair.  I’m assuming that’s what all the cool kids are doing (thanks Alexander Wang + Altuzarra).  The face was kept bare and matte with natural strong brow.  The hair totally took the spotlight.  It makes me wonder how Paul Hanlon decided which color to put in the models hair.  Outfit, color of the eyes, skincolor?  Who knows.  I would totally start doing it at random just for fun :)  Somehow, I think I saved a lot of this merely for the hair and my like of the model’s face hahaha.  On that note, here’s Bo Don (that color of paint really suited her):

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September 13, 2010

Thakoon Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Charming collection.  I normally don’t like prints, but I couldn’t resist Thakoon this time around.  His spring offering is just so pretty.  His use of silk is free-floaty and dreamy with the occasional rolled twist that sat so prettily.  Moreover, Thakoon most definitely gives me texture whether that be charmingly frayed edges or ribbon-like lines of eye-hooks.  It’s pretty without being too cute and more importantly, boring.   For those hot summer days, I would definitely reach for one of his silk dresses and cardigan jackets.  Hot days are such a dilema: you either suffer through wearing something other than shorts and tanks or you stick with the minimal amount of clothes as possibly.  Terribly unchic.  More like sweltering and slightly slutty.  In any case, Thakoon solves the issue nicely.   Stylish and cool.  Thakoon makes me look forward to spring and summer next year.

This is all topped off with a face accented with gold, bronze, and taupe.  Natural, light, and glowy.  Just the way I like it.  Apparently “Thakoon likes his girls to look like fairies” (so says his hair stylist Didier Malige) and that was certainly achieved.

On a side note, would you look at Jacquelyn Jablonski’s abs?!?!  Even from far away you can see the definition. Dammmmmmn girl.  Reminds me of her very sporty editorial for Russh last December/January issue.  Most models are either waif-like or womanly.  Jacquelyn is neither; she’s athletic and totally ace.  I love seeing that on the runway.

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September 13, 2010

Derek Lam Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Derek Lam has scaled back on the avante garde creations that fashion is so in love with.  He chose to go with designs for the everyday woman. One who wants chic clothes without being outrageous.  So it looks like it’s back to basics for him however with innovative twists.  While I don’t have any shots of it, Lam’s new erogenous zone and focus is on the back.  Expect a lot of halters.  In any case, the what Lam should be applauded for is the easiness of the clothes.  They’re so beautifully wrought that they’re effortless.  Moreover, every look is complemented with either platform wedge sandals (which remind me of boats) or knee-high strapped gladiators.  Crafty.

Personally, I adore the shoes.  They add the right amount of edge to the sweet basics.  I especially love the gladiators; to think I thought mine took a long time to buckle.  I can’t even imagine how long it took to buckle…8 of them.  The shape to the back of the straps are creative as well: neat in front and tree-like branches in the back.  J’adore.

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September 13, 2010

Max Azria Spring 2011

Credit: NY Magazine

It’s all about the maxi dress Max Azria.  Which isn’t really surprising.  I’ve always liked Max Azria for his long floaty dresses.  Rather typical for spring but pretty nonetheless.  Most of the time I could care less if I’ve seen it before as long as it’s well crafted.  It’s all about the work and thought that goes into something.  The reality of today is our desire for instant gratification which more often than not results in a sacrifice in quality.  In any case, this is a beautiful minimalist collection from Max Azris.

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September 13, 2010

Diane von Furstenberg Spring 2011

Credit: Vogue.com

Normally I have prints.  I’m more of a solid color person.  However, I did like several pieces from DvF.  The wrap dress is her signature.  This time around it’s more a wrap jumpsuit.  I love the deep narrow v-neck that result; it’s a lovely classy sliver of skin that peeks out.  It’s all about peekaboo skin for me.  Take look 3 here for example: that hipbone peeking out totally got me.  It’s classy and hardly contrived.  And that matte hot pink lip is awesome.  DvF is a goddess among women.

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